Pure Fun 12-Foot Trampoline and Enclosure Set – Review

The absolute biggest problem with this trampoline was the set up process. Because the frame is metal and the set up consists of fitting metal poles together, if you make a mistake, there is virtually no way to undo your mistake. I actually had to get the company to ship me some replacement parts a couple times. In order to save other people from the same pain I went through, I’m writing up notes on each step that could be potentially confusing. I looked for videos on YouTube to watch someone putting this together, but there wasn’t anything available. Hopefully someone in a similar situation will find this valuable.

First off, please make sure you’re using the latest version of the manual, which can be found at the Jamz Products website (jamzproducts dot net slash wp-content slash uploads slash 9012T-Manual-v091410 dot pdf) as of the time I’m writing this. The manual that came with my trampoline glossed over important details and was clearly not written by a native English speaker.

Step 2 – Top Rail and Support Assembly

(Page 12) 1. The biggest potential problem is the direction of the holes on the top rail (part #3). Fortunately, this version of the manual calls out which way the top rail should be oriented. My manual did not contain this important information, and the top rail had no label indicating which way it should be oriented. I of course wound up doing it the wrong way (everything still fit) and got all the way to putting on the trampoline mat before I realized it was wrong. Again, because you are squeezing metal onto metal, there is no way to undo this and go back. (Clarification: someone asked if this meant that once the trampoline is fully assembled that it could not be disassembled. As far as I know, the only part that can’t be disassembled is the top rail/t-section/leg tube construction.) The company sent me replacement parts but charged me about $40 shipping. When they sent me the replacement parts, the top rail had stickers on them indicating how they should be oriented, so I guess I wasn’t the first person to make this mistake.

(Page 13) 2. The idea is to squeeze the T-section (part #4) with the spring hook tool and slide the leg tube (#6) over it. “Slide” is probably not the right word. You will need a mallet to pound it on. I found this nearly impossible to do on my own. My wife and I took turns with one person squeezing the T-section with the spring hook (takes some hand strength) while the other pounded the leg tube over it. I found that squeezing the T-section toward the top made it easier. We covered the leg tube with some cardboard as we were pounding it in, since we didn’t want to bend the leg tube. Once the leg tube is on part of the way, you shouldn’t need to keep squeezing the T-section, so you can take turns using the mallet to get the leg tube on all the way.

I should mention that the manufacturing tolerances on each of these parts as fairly wide, so not all of the pieces are the exact same shape. You’ll find that some parts just don’t fit as well as others. This goes for all steps, not just this one.

(Page 13) 3. Some top rails connected together very easily while others did not. Try mixing and matching, though you’ll still probably wind up with a few that are hard to fit together. I found it easiest to do this on a level surface, since if you’re not connecting them at the correct angle, it’s hard to get them to fit. One friend recommended using some grease to get them to slide together more easily, but I didn’t try that. As the drawing indicates, you should only connect them in pairs for now.

(Page 13) 4. Again, some of these fit better than others, since the exact shapes of each of the parts was not completely consistent. It’s best to do this part with two people. My wife and I pushed down equally on both sides at the same time to get them to fit.

(Page 14) 5. Same as part 3 from page 13. You’ll find that some fit together more easily than others. Don’t worry if they don’t all fit together and form a perfect circle yet. When you add the trampoline springs, they’ll all snap into place. Also, please keep in mind that it’s very important that the ground is level, not only for getting these pieces to fit together, but also to protect the integrity of the frame. My yard was mostly level, but I dug some holes where some of the leg bases were until it was completely level all the way around. I recommend using an actual level and not just eyeballing it.

(Page 15-16) Step 3 – Trampoline Mat Assembly – They recommend having two people do this, but I actually found this to be relatively easy and straightforward. I’d recommend counting up the number of holes (I believe it was 72) and putting the springs in the holes opposite each other 4 at a time so you can keep track. After a little while, it was hard to keep track of what was exactly opposite of what, but it didn’t matter as much as I had thought. Make sure you’re careful about which size hook you use on each side if you have Spring B.

(Page 17) Step 5 – Frame Pad Assembly – I didn’t find this to be terribly difficult. Just be careful not to rip the elastic bands. As it says in line E, this does shift around from time to time after a period of use.
Trampoline Enclosure – The manual for the trampoline enclosure can be found at jamzproducts dot net slash wp-content slash uploads slash 9112E-Manual-v92310 dot pdf.

(Page 11) Step 1. (Putting the poles together) This is fairly intuitive. Please note that the foam on the lower section of the enclosure poles can slide down, so you may need to push it up a little from time to time. The smaller opening of the pole cover goes over the pole cap, and the pole cover should cover all of the foam part of the upper and lower sections of the enclosure poles.

(Page 11) Step 2. (Attaching the poles to the trampoline frame) I put one of the enclosure poles up against the trampoline and very loosely put one of the U-shaped bar/metal plate assemblies on it went to get my tools. Unfortunately, because it wasn’t held in place firmly, the pole fell to the side and twisted the U-shaped bar/metal plate assembly. This one was my mistake. Just a word to the wise – bring a small wrench or whatever other tightening tool you plan on using before you get started.

(Page 12) Step 3. (Attaching the net loosely) This is a fairly easy step. The one thing I’d point out is that you should pick the place where you’d like the opening to be and start there and work your way around, as it says in line B.

(Page 12-13) Step 4 and 5. (Attaching the net securely to the trampoline) This was the hardest step for the safety enclosure. Toward the end, it gets very difficult to pull the net into place, and you need to be careful not to tear it. I recommend that as you go around hooking the safety enclosure to the springs, that you pull each safety enclosure as far as possible in the direction you’re going. For example, the manual recommends in Figure 6 to go clockwise. As you attach each hook, try to hook it onto the leftmost spring it can reasonably attach to. That way, by the time you get toward the end, there will be enough give that you can stretch it all the way around.